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WR250installation.doc

WR 250R/X Installation ('08-'17)

 

Items provided:

 

• Saddlebags

• ABS rack (comes pre-assembled)

• Hardware (metric) 26 pieces [Figure 1]

A (2) B C D
90mm bolt 95mm bolt 130mm bolt 25mm bolt
washer washer washer big washer
shim shim shim small washer
spacer spacer spacer locknut
washer washer washer  
locknut locknut locknut  
Left Rear Left Front Right Side Top

 

Tools needed:

 

• Ratchet

• 13mm and 10mm socket

• 13mm and 10mm wrench

• Drill and 8mm drill bit (or 21/64 bit, 5/16 bit is close)

 

The only assembly required is mounting the ABS rack to the subframe of the DR-Z with the provided hardware and then securing the saddlebags into place.

 

Note: Spacers/shims included with rack are black.

 

Detailed instructions are shown below.

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Step 1 - Drill Out Holes:

 

The first thing that needs to be done is to drill out two 1/4" holes in the rear fender. These will be used for mounting the two A bolts. The top center of the rear fender is 11 11/16" long from the rear tip 'V' to the front 'V' where it recesses back down. To locate the two holes to be drilled:

 

1. Draw a line from the rear 'V' to the front 'V'

2. Measure 9 1/2" from the rear tip along the line

3. At this distance, use a right angle and draw a

....perpendicular line out 15/16" to the centerline

....of the hole on each side of the 11 11/16" line

 

Drill each hole with a 1/4'' drill bit. The threads for the A mounts are 1 1/2" below the fender; so be sure to not drill too far down. Figure 2 shows the location of the holes to be drilled for the A bolts and the dimensions used to locate each hole.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 2 - Remove Stock (OEM) Pieces:

 

To locate the B and C mounting holes, the tool kit and helmet lock need to be removed. The C mounting hole is the larger of the two threaded holes, which is the third from the front of the bike.

 

Figure 3 shows the pieces to be removed as well as the locations of each hole.

Step 2 - Put ABS Rack On:

 

You will find that the ABS rack will only fit one direction. The top front follows the curve of the seat and the bolt holes will only line up if the rack is positioned that way.

 

It might be easier to put the A bolts in first as they do not have as many pieces to line up. The bolt head and the big washer should be on the outside of the rack. Lift the fender slightly and drop the two A spacers through the top subframe holes. The spacers should rest on top of the lower subframe piece (Figure 5). The A spacers do not have angles and are reversable.

 

Install the hardware provided loosely at first until all the bolts have been secured with a locknut (C does not have a locknut). The D bolt head, washer, and shim should all be on the outside of the rack. The D shim should have its thickest side on the top with the angled end against the rack. The B and D spacers should be placed in between the rack and the subframe with the slanted side facing the rack. B is reversable. The C spacer should have the angled end angainst the subframe with the long side down.

 

 

Step 3 - Securing The Rack:

 

Make sure the washers are placed at the end of each bolt prior to the locknut. The A bolts have small washers that are on the bottom side of the rear fender, as seen in Figure 6.

 

With all of the hardware lined up with the appropriate holes, you can start tightening up the bolts. The spacers will naturally want to rotate so the angled end matches the slope of the rack. You may need to manually rotate each spacer so the two angles fit better. The longer side of the spacer should be on the bottom for proper fit (rotated opposite of the shim).

Step 4 - Securing The Saddlebags:

 

Fisher Saddlebags™ do not use long straps with hooks to secure the saddlebags because of the potential for the strap to come loose and get caught in the wheel or chain. Instead the saddlebags are secured to the ABS rack with sewn in pockets, turn-buckles, and a snap.

 

The side saddlebags have a front inside pocket that slips over the front of the ABS rack. There is a single turn-buckle at the front of each saddlebag on the inside (Figure 7). There is also a flap in the back that secures to the turn-buckles mounted on the rack. Figure 8 shows this in detail. The right saddlebag has an additional front snap on the pocket.

 

The top bag is secured by a pocket in the back that slips over the back end of the rack. Since it is sewn to the other two bags, it needs no other fastening devices.

 

With the rack bolted on to the subframe, the bags will be easy to put on. The simplest way to put the bags on is to:

 

1. Slip the top bag pocket over the back of rack
2. Secure the front left saddlebag turn-buckle
3. Slip the left saddlebag pocket over the rack
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 for right saddlebag   
5. Fold the back flaps over the 4 turn-buckles and

....twist each turn-buckle 90 degrees

 

The ABS rack can be installed or removed in a few minutes.

 

The saddlebags can easily be installed or removed in less than a minute.

 

*If there is a lot of weight in the saddlebags, it is a good idea to strap a bungee cord around to keep the bags more stable.

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